Proper setup will not be possible unless this saddle is replaced. What follows is broad overview of the work involved. Then I want the third string, the first wrapped string, to come forward again and leave off of the front of the saddle. saddle slot to be a bit uneven, and given the choice, I'd like my saddle to fit tightly In fact, it's amazing string tension. The saddle is a crucial part of an acoustic guitar. I then transfer this to saddle by drawing a line with a pencil. Tone, in particular, can vary depending on the material used to make the saddle. These lines will be my guide of where to file. Round off the corners of the blank on the sandpaper as well. just click the link to instantly download an E-Gift Card today! This will help reduce any binding the might occur as the string moves over the saddle. I buy these in bulk from a distributor. neatly. With that completed, the saddle is ready to go. Since I purposely used a blank that is taller than I need, the strings will predictably be too high off of the fingerboard. in a slot that cuts through at both ends. bit higher, it may be reasonable to lay a small shim underneath to raise it. To compensate the saddle, I begin by using a pencil to mark the area between the second and third strings. First I find a suitable bone blank. saddle over to sand the opposite side, retrying the fit over and over, I manage to Here's the subject, a Martin D-18: best left to an experienced luthier. The idea is to keep how fast and easy it is to shape bone by rubbing it on sandpaper. it is unlikely to have an adverse effect on tone. Place it on the bone blank and mark the length of the old saddle onto the blank. It is always possible for the ends of the blank into both ends of the saddle slot. Bone bridge saddle making for acoustic guitars >Back to Guitar Upgrades . Most of the time, I prefer to raise the saddle by replacing it. When a guitar repairer makes one they should be making it bespoke for you so that the specifications match - which is why it’s important that you keep hold of your original one. Use four fingers to apply pressure when sanding. More. The I have clipped to an old marble cutting board: So, the saddle makes strong positive contact with the sides of Since this is where the strings transition from plain to wound, this is the point that requires the most significant change in compensation in order for the guitar to intonate properly. the pressure distributed evenly to avoid bending or distorting the saddle as I sand. The next time you are in shop, pickup a gift certificate for your friends, bandmates, or music teachers. 201 Smithtown Blvd.Nesconset, NY 11767Phone: (631) 521-3848Email (Our preferred method of contact): Erik@GuitarRepairLongIsland.com. A companion to Lowering Action at the Saddle Besides the obvious effect on the string height, these grooves also move the strings contact point and negatively impact the instruments intonation. Put the finished saddle back into the notch and restring the guitar. The guitar’s action, radius, intonation, and tone are directly directly influenced by the saddle, so it’s important that it’s perfect. the slot in which it rests. Lastly, besides not sounding great, this cheap plastic saddle has large grooves that have been worn into it by the strings. These are not easy to replace, and are This ensures the best sound transmission to the top. Flipping Saddle up and let’s go! Once my width is about right, I will carefully round the edges of the saddle so that it can pop perfectly into the slot. Not only is it responsible for transmitting the vibration of the strings to the guitar top, but it also helps to control the instrument’s string action and intonation. The ends of the logical that I'd want to make the ends fit perfectly, but it turns out not to be Shims frequently have an adverse effect on structural integrity, however. Notice in the photo The idea is to reduce the effort in thinning the blank to fit the saddle slot. When it is even with the pencil tracing or mark you made earlier, round the edges down just a bit more for a rounded edge. Old Martins, and some vintage style reissues, often have their saddles glued in place Once everything is dialed in and functioning the way I want, I run the saddle through a couple of grits of fine sand paper to polish off any tooling marks and then I use a small buffer to polish it out to a high shine. Compensation is a term used to describe adjustments made to the functional length of the string in order to adjust the intonation of the instrument. get the saddle to fit neatly into the slot. I wouldn't drive it in with a hammer for fear of splitting the bridge! That way, I'm assured Once I get the blank to fit into the slot, I'll start to shape it. A higher Next I use a set of radius gauges to draw the profile of the fingerboard onto the saddle. A guitar saddle is a thin strip of bone, ivory or plastic that is positioned just in front of the bridge pins on acoustic guitars. Guitar Repair Long Island is the area’s premier destination for fretted musical instrument care and maintenance.
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