I sanded the table and wiped with a tac cloth, but now it looks whitish. What grit sandpaper should I use between coats of polyurethane? varnish does. I’ve let each application dry in the sun for 24 hours until I applied another coat sanding/fine steel wool between coats. Yes, this terminology is very hard to discuss with a straight face. polyurethane does not melt into itself the way shellac or lacquer do. "Polyurethane cannot be de-glossed with steel wool (or any abrasive) without going sort of cloudy.". It’s a random orbital sander. Someone suggested putting grit into the high gloss stain before applying. The polyurethaned top of my new dining table is too shiny. I use 320 grit wet/dry paper and a bit of soapy water as a lubricant. That’s essentially what I did here. So removing them early on makes each subsequent coat smoother and easier to sand. I need a cheap easy way to cover wood paneling that will not distort t, How to remove wax build up on wood floors from Rejuvenate products. a thick semi-gloss top coat. If not, is there any replacement for the acrylic lacquer because I have no ability to spray in my shop? There are also lots of options and alternatives in this arena, so don’t be afraid to experiment a bit after doing some additional research on your own. Thanks. But I like the idea of working my way down from the highest grit because it removes less finish and could save a lot of extra work. A regular engineered hardwood requires 3mm of top wood to attempt a single sand/refinish. Since Arm R Seal is already thinned for wiping, I don’t know that I’d recommend it for a surface that will be rubbed out. Since brushing dry dust is easier than wiping away a liquid, I can monitor the shiny low spots more often and decrease my risk of sanding through. Amazing videos – great stuff. Thank you and well done! I love the matte look of the raw wood but know that I need to seal them. rev 2020.11.24.38066, The best answers are voted up and rise to the top, Home Improvement Stack Exchange works best with JavaScript enabled, Start here for a quick overview of the site, Detailed answers to any questions you might have, Discuss the workings and policies of this site, Learn more about Stack Overflow the company, Learn more about hiring developers or posting ads with us. By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy. For best results, wait until you're ready to apply the new finish before using the de-glosser. For leveling I sand by hand dry with a cork sanding block using either 320 or 400 grit. It appears this table is commermcily made because the top is constructed a lot of small stips, and the grain orientation varies a lot throughout. I am a Masters student of the University of Education, Kumasi-Ghana West Africa. As an alternative to wet sanding in the leveling process, I’ve had good results with Norton 3x. Being the picky person I am, I’d like to buff those out, but am afraid of ruining the rest of the finish. Thanks! Interesting in learning more about the Humidor shown in the video? Do you have any suggestions? sanding, etc. 1) I assume we need different shades of wood filler from Timbermate. These soft foam pads fit right onto standard hook & loop sanders. rub it out with 0000 steel wool or a very fine scotch brite pad. However, there are millions of products and services on the web, and I only promote those products or services that I would use personally. Marc, The porch was previously painted with a semi-gloss oil-based solid stain, but my understanding is that they now only offer high gloss in oil stains. For instance, on this project you used 320 and on the contemplation bench you used platin 1000. I would investigate this first...if it is the cause of all your woes then have them fix it. Marc – Finally got to try this last night, although I bought the SF4000 in lieu of the SF4500 by accident. Joel. Thank you for your input. In other words--is there a way for me to do it that doesn't involve sanding?". A Mr. Clean eraser sponge is also a good product and it will take care of those hand prints on walls with flat paint too. The wax is not necessary, but for what I build, it is needed. p.s. Saber más. Thanks in advance! The key to this process is letting the finish cure. Use damp rags to wipe away the excess water/finish slurry and it just might fix the problem. the milk paint you have to give it a coat of varnish. I recently had to start over while finishing a large slab. If this is a simply a level of gloss, pay someone to come in and add a single coat of THE SAME PRODUCT at a higher gloss level (in your case "gloss"). It is not really a stripper. poly does not and can crack) as for painting, use the best brush that money can buy. You can also try scrim, attached w liquid starch,, to give you some application control. Where would stain fit in the process if one wanted to stain the wood? If it doesn’t, then you have to go to something more aggressive. Thanks! And if so, what happens the next time I need to paint the porch? Just one quick question. The "expensive" product is the polyurethane. As for figured cherry, there should be no reason to pore-fill. Do I start over at the spray lacquer steps and work myself up again? Spackling could take some of the ridges away, but my concern would be taking some of the original finish away, when removed - not something I have tried or seen as a temp. I always enjoy reading the information put out for the public on surface finishes. He either has an ETS150/3 or an ETS150/5. I’m assuming you wouldn’t have to fill any pores because the paint would take care of that, but how much longer you should let the piece sit following the paint stage for the paint to fully cure, before moving on to the finish coat? Used 0000 steal wool to remove, hit it with 2000 wet sand paper again. I was thinking about buying a mirror glaze compound like meguiars m7 but i dont know if thats the answer. The 5″ model is the ETS125. You mentioned a possible clear wood filler in your initial answer to my questions above but Timbermate doesn’t make such a creature. I have a beautiful dining room table that I have had in a non climate controlled warehouse. I use a poly finish and after the first 3 – 4 coats, I start to sand between coats. Anyway, here’s a general guideline for wait times. Why don’t you use a 4000 grit pad? To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers. Sand To bring it back up, you'll need to use finer abrasives. If using varnish how many coats do you suggest for this process? Any thoughts? Anyone know how to 'de-gloss' polyurethane? Should I do a few more coats of varnish before I start to sand or was I just using to low of grit to begin with? Hi Marc, long time follower first time poster here. Would a quarter sheet palm sander achieve the same goal? I’m starting at 800 to get it flat and then 1200,1500 and wet sanding. Intentionally aged cabinets give the kitchen or laundry room a relaxed, timeworn look, Learn what exactly spray foam is, the pros and cons of using it and why you shouldn’t mess around with installation, Clever storage, luxe materials and a few design surprises bring big personality and style into a small space, Concrete comes in more colors and finishes than ever before. The table will hold plants and the occasional glass of iced tea, so I'd still like the wood protected and could put a non-glossy poly back on. If that doesnt work, you can always use a semi-gloss topcoat to change the sheen. BM Advance, SW Pro Classic, or this I've painted over 100 pieces of furniture and have never had any chips. The end result looks incredibly professional. Then I use my random orbital sander for the automotive rubbing compound. Hmm….depends on what server you play on. I like to use Festool Platin Abrasives, 500, 1000, and 2000. Each layer sits on top of the previous one, so there is a danger of sanding through one layer into the next. Thank you for all of your past information from your web site and the comments from other readers. Wash with a sponge. The Wood Whisperer abides by word of mouth marketing standards and holds integrity in the highest regard. Each company has their own definition of "gloss, semi-gloss, satin, matte, extra matte". Breaking down the gloss on the finish will allow an otherwise sound coat of paint to remain as primer with no other treatment required. I called them and they suggest going up to 4000 with platin, then using sheepskin+MPA5000, then a medium/fine foam+MPA8000. Rubbing out to a high gloss and shortcuts don’t live in the same world. Semi gloss? It fell apart at the leveling phase as I kept sanding through the thin spots (using a block). Can an interior varnish be placed over General’s Arm-R-Seal oil & urethane topcoat? I would say you need to start applying lacquer and start building your coats. He has degrees in science and humanities and years of teaching experience.
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